I knew almost nothing about Luang Prabang when booking my trip, but the handful of people I spoke to that had been there described it with a dreamy fondness. Several told me they had planned to stay a few days yet remained for weeks. What was it about this place?
It didnt take me long to find out. Within 15 minutes I was under the town's spell. I checked into my hotel, a 100 year old wooden house, sat under the shade of mango trees overlooking the quiet streets, took a bite of a salad made with a dozen fresh herbs and vegetables, and, with a cool breeze blowing across my face, realized that I, too, might stay a few weeks...or maybe forever.
Rarely does a place seep into your pores and hold you captive. It's happened to me in New Orleans and in Istanbul. In Luang Prabang, so many small elements combine to create a seductive mix: the languid pace, the glow of the afternoon sunlight, the heady smell of flowers mixed with burning charcoal, the golden wats tucked in between traditional Laotian wooden houses, the saffron robed monks strolling the streets, the smiling locals calling out 'saahbaadeee' in welcome...the senses are assaulted and one gives into the intoxication. And then there is the food! Meats minced with fresh herbs, rolled in lettuce with cucumber, scallion, mint - or stuffed into stalks of lemongrass and fried, served with sticky rice (to be eaten by the handful). There is good local beer, a potent homemade whiskey, and creative cocktails, like lemongrass mojitos. The Laotians know how to enjoy themselves. I found myself laughing out loud with joy while I walked down the street one night.
I'm already planning my return...
Strolling along the river
One of the golden wats (temples)
A traditional Laotian house
The delicious offerings at the market
Monks on their morning alms round
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