November 22, 2013

Cape Town

My stay in Cape Town was a bit disappointing. I'd heard so many amazing things about this city, and yet there was much not to like. For starters, there was the weather. It's said that CT has 4 seasons in one day, and it's true! It was alternately humid, chilly, sunny, pouring, windy, stifling....often in the course of a few hours. I was unable to visit Table Mountain or the beach, and my hotel had the fire place roaring on 2 nights! (And this was Spring).

One of the first words that came to mind to describe the city was gritty. I quickly updated this to dangerous. I've never stayed in a hotel ( a nice boutique hotel in the garden district) with electric fencing. Pretty much everything had electric fencing. While walking along Long Street, one of the city's main shopping corridors, I noticed that all shops had metal gates, and you had to buzz to be let in. And we're not talking about Tiffany's, we're talking about thrift sores and book stores! I walked briskly down Long St at dusk and was constantly approached by beggars. These were not your typical beggars with a sad look and a cup out held, these were determined men that locked step with me for a block or more trying to catch my attention with a wild tale. As soon as I shook one, another materialized. When I visited a gallery and commented on how everything in the area closed by 4pm, the employee replied that it was it was 'too dodgy' to be in the area after dark. Walking around town, I notice signs from security companies on modest houses, labeled with the ominous warning "Armed Response". Wow.

On the other hand, Cape Town is lively and modern, at moments I felt like I could be in San Francisco. There are cool independent shops with stylish, locally made items. Delicious South African wine is a steal. There is a multitude of ethnicities and the city is one of the few (only?) proudly gay friendly cities in Africa. What I could see of the mountains and coastline was stunning.

So I think I have to return and give Cape Town another try. But I might go to San Francisco first!


The elusive Table Mountain hiding under the 'table cloth'.

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